AVOIDING H2S!
Growers dust their grapes with sulfur to retard mildew conditions. You can easily develop H2S, Hydrogen Sulfide, rotten egg off odors, in your wines. Additionally, late season grapes are nutrient deficient, leading to more H2S formation. The trick is to detect early, treat and then remove before these odors progress to more offensive forms.
or Super-Super Food.
every day OR EVERY 4° BRIX DROP, until 5º Brix.
More nutrient is useless to the yeast after reaching 5º Brix.MERCAPTANS:
Any odor other than pure rotten eggs (H2S) can be assumed to be mercaptans which will only progress to Di-Mercaptans when areated. If you smell mercaptans (garlicky), assume and also treat for di-mercaptans (burnt rubber).Just because you aerated and the mercaptan
stinkies went away, IS NOT proof
that they won't come back!
Inadequate removal OF ALL MERCAPTANS will
result in the re-appearence of the stinkies and regeneration of mercaptans to dimercaptans somewhere down the line.
Guaranteed!
Treat early and treat thoroughly.
It's best to do this while the wine is just finishing gassing and is still full of trapped gas. Then you need only treat for mono-mercatans, using copper and carbon. Waiting beyond this time, especially with inadequate SO2, will permit the oxidative formation of di-mercaptans and will require the use of ascorbic acid SO2, as well as copper and carbon.
If you've got really heavy stinkies, you need to start with heavier treatments.
It's best to test small samples first to determine the treatment needed.Treat heavily enough to remove all traces of the stinkies. Do not guess at the amounts of copper needed. Add only enough to remove the mercaptans....but add enough to get them all completely out.
If your wine still does not smell like pure fruit, you've still got the stinkies!H 2 S TREATMENT
Hydrogen Sulfide (H2S) smells like rotten eggs/sulfury/burnt matches.
It happens easily and is also easy to correct --- if taken care of before the end of fermentation.
H2S at the start of ferment
usually comes from sulfur sprays used in the vineyard against mildew and bunch rot. For whites, the treatment is to let the juice cold settle, discarding the sediment, before fermentation.H2S at mid-late ferment usually is due to nutrient deficient musts. The treatment is the addition of an amino acid source like Super-Super Food (not DAP). It helps to add at the start of ferment if you suspect the must might be deficient. Then add every 4°B.
If H2S remains near the end of ferment/pressing, immediately rack off of any grapey sediments that may contain the offending sulfur. Vigorous aeration, at this time only, while ferment is still happening, helps to drive off the volatile smells. Rack and aerate every 6 hours until odors and grapey sediments are gone.
However, if any mercaptans (usually a garlic-like scent) are already formed from the H2S, areation will drive the reaction to the bound
di-mercaptan form (asparagras, artichoke, kerosene, rubber, etc.).
Treatment of di-mercaptans and mercaptans:
STEP #1- Raise SO2 level to the recommended amount, relative to your pH.
STEP #2- Treat for Di-mercaptans:
(3.75 mls of 1% Ascorbic Acid/gallon = 10 ppm ascorbic/gallon)
number of ppms.
Step #2- Treat for Mercaptans:
(.15 mls of 1% Copper Sulfate solution/gallon = .1 ppm copper)
If, after the above treatments, Mercaptans persist,
you will have to repeat the treatments.
.2 ppm un-bound copper is the legal limit. Too much
can be toxic and can cause a metallic taste and a distinct haze. So, do not overtreat, but do treat enough to completely remove the offending odors/flavors
Step #3- Add Deoderizing Carbon (Norit D-10):
Without following an ascorbic/copper treatment for mercaptans with a small amount of deoderizing carbon, treatment will be ineffective in removing the disulfide off-odors.
Simply mix throughout the wine. Be gentle, avoiding oxidation.
The carbon will settle out in a few days to weeks, often clinging
to the sides of the container.