WOOD AND WINE

WOOD AND WINE

SOURCE WOOD

There is a major difference in the levels of heartwood ellagitannins

and volatile extractives between species. There is also

a high variation between trees in the same forest.

EUROPEAN:

Q. ROBUR. A pedunculate oak that is widely distributed throughout Europe and into Russia. Faster growing with larger growth rings.

Hence, looser grain and quicker wine penetration. Soft, vanillin flavors/aromas. More phenolics/ellagitannins. Example: Limousin

Q. PETRAEA. A sessile oak that is more drought resistant, adapting to dry, acidic soils. Tends to overgrow q. robur forests with time.

Tighter grain, slower wine penetration. Higher levels of cis-lactones and

volatile constituents like vanillin and eugenol. Example: Troncais

AMERICAN:

Q.ALBA. Tighter grain. Higher levels of cis-lactones and volatile extractives. Lower levels of non-volatile tannins. Woody, coconut-like aromas/flavors. Less total extraction with time, but much more aromatic

and in your face. Source: Arkansas, Missouri, Wisconsin.

Q. GARRYANA. Similar to q. alba. Very low levels of lactones but somewhat high levels of volatile constituents. Source: Oregon, N. California.

THE EFFECT OF WOOD

Contrary to general opinion, barrels do not "breath".

A tightly bunged barrel will actually create a vacuum as water migrates out, concentrating the wine. Any oxidation that happens results from the air pickup during topping and racking.

Barrels do add oak nuance similar to the spicing in a food dish. Thus, the choice of a barrel is very important relative to size, source, degree of toasting, and the cooper's barrel raising technique. There needs to be a synergistic effect between the wood and the wine.

HEATING/TOASTING OF THE STAVES: The major factor influencing the flavor/aroma composition of oak cooperage is the heating of the staves during the raising of the barrel. Toasting penetrates about halfway into the stave, about 10-14 mm.

Surface (2-4 mm): dominated by toasty, high intensity, low complexity, simple character.

Sub Surface (4-6 mm): complex, creamy, coconut, vanillin, sweet caramel.

Center (6+mm): astringent, green, raw, woody, poor integration of fruit and oak flavor.

The subsurface has the highest concentration of oak lactones, furfural, vanillin, and syringaldehyde from the heat breakdown of polyoses and lignins and the heat hydrolysis of ellagitannins to ellagiac acid.

These flavors/aromas are highest in medium to medium plus degree of toasting.

As the length and heat of toasting increase, there is an increase of maple, spice, and toasty character. Heavy toasting brings out a charred, bacon-like character that may be appropriate for some wines, but not many.

Thermal modification is the greatest in wood seasoned the longest, usually 2-3 years. Short, open stacks of staves encourage the greatest bio-modification of the wood's lignins. European coopers tend to stack this way for more weather exposure.

BARREL ALTERNATIVES

OAK shavings/chips are an inexpensive way to get some wood flavor. They are equivalent to the outer surface profile as stated above and contribute toasty, intense, yet simple, forward flavors.

OAK BEANS/STAVES/INNERSTAVES are similar to an actual barrel without doing any wine concentration. Being a stave that's been cut to size, you get both the surface and subsurface flavors/aromas as in a barrel.

CAUTION: Whatever your wood source, Do Not Overoak your wine! Top and taste on a regular basis. More often the smaller the barrel. Take the wine out of the cellar. Have someone else taste and smell. Oak should compliment, not overwhelm your wine!

BARREL CARE, NEW AND EMPTY

BARRELGARD™ (A synthetic alternative to linseed oil. It keeps your barrel free of exterior mold, does not seal the barrel, allowing it to concentrate the wine, and brings out the wood grain, making your barrel absolutely beautiful)

WET SURFACE LINER™ (A 2-part, food grade epoxy that creates an hard, cleanable square patch around the bung hole)

NEW BARRELS: You will need to soak them internally with hot water until watertight. Use the least amount of hottest water for the shortest length of time. No use pouring the wonderful barrel flavors down the drain.

At The DAUME Winery, with our 60 gallon barrels, after Barrelgard and Wet Surface Liner, I simply fill with 5 gallons of hottest water, stand on one end for 5 minutes, roll around, stand on the other end for 5 minutes, roll around, check for possible leaking (never has happened), empty, drain well, and fill with wine.

p.s.- If you've done the above, and for some reason, decide not to fill with wine, let the barrels drain completely and dry out, so they don't mold from moisture. You'll have to repeat the hot water swelling again before using.

USED BARRELS: When the time comes to store your barrels empty after use, do the following to insure that your barrel doesn't go bacterial.

Use "Barrelclean" (sodium carbonate) and hottest water to remove tartrate deposits. Rinse. (PBW and Proxyclean, percarbonate bases cleaners, also work)

Use Citic Acid, hottest water and the same exact proportions, to neutralize the Barrelclean. Rinse.

Fill with water and sulfite solution (1 tsp. Sulfite and 1 tsp. Citric Acid per gallon of water). Bung tightly. Top up weekly, just like it was filled with wine. Change solution monthly.

For barrels 30 gallons and up, add 3-5 gallons (10% of volume) of water, only, and add 1/4 cup Sulfite and 1/2 cup Citric Acid. Bung tightly, roll around, and store standing on one end. Roll around and change ends every 2 weeks. Change solution every month.

When ready to use, you need to get the sulfite/citric out of the wood. Empty and rinse well. Using your hottest water, add about 10% by volume. Roll around, stand on ends, empty and rinse well. Smell. You should not smell SO2. Repeat if necessary.

"The best way to keep a barrel sound,......is to keep it full of wine."

When full of wine, you'll keep an eye on your barrel, topping it weekly.

Most people loose their barrels when they are empty because they think

having a life is more important than topping.

WARNING: WHEN YOUR BARREL GOES BACTERIAL, IT'S HISTORY!